I suspect this consists of passive components only - simple switches that should close a circuit / emit a signal whenever a button is pressed or a stalk is moved into a specific position. These parts are shared between Volkswagen, Audi, Seat and Škoda, so the pinout should also be well documented online. To feed the simulator with external input I’d like to use a real steering column switches.Īgain, to keep the project costs I’ve bought the steering column switches from Škoda Fabia for another 10 €, part numbers 8LO 953 513 G and 4BO 983 503 G for the left and right stalks. I powered both 12V wires from an adapter and the cluster lit up - so at least that works :) Green connector with the pin numbering, blue connector after the wiring BLUE I suspected that it won’t be necessary to connect all 64 pinsĪnd converted it into tabular form, as I wanted to do the wiring next. The cluster has two 32-pin connectors that happen to be compatible pitch-wise with the standard breadbord jumper wires. The donor vehicle looked probably like this. Volkswagen group parts tend to be cheap around here, so I scored an instrument cluster from a VW Transporter T5 for 10 €, part number 7H0 920 850 R. In this article I’ll describe my initial findings - how the things are wired together. I’d like to do something similar, but with with parts from a slightly different vehicle. Post on hackaday, where Leon Bataille connected a VW Polo dashboard and switches to Euro Truck Simulator 2. It will have an FTDI interface and also some JST connectors tied to different io ports.I got inspired by the CAN BUS Gaming Simulator past that it is a standard Uno R3 pin layout around the 328p and CAN chips. It will have an onboard 5v step down regulator that can handle the crazy spikes in voltage you see in the automotive power. Currently this board has the DB9 for connection to the ODB-II port to pick up the CAN bus and power. Also I'm waiting on ordering all the surface mount parts till I finalize the new board design. I've been designing a new board and have the first run already made but there are some issues with it that will require a new set. I know that I can cut back on the TFT display and move to something a bit more light weight like a 2-4inch i2c OLED display and get it all running on a standard arduino 328p. Now it's back to being huge and unsightly but it works well. Using the GPS to compare trip distance and speed also displaying location, altitude, and time. Now I have it displaying all the engine data, calculating MPG instant, trip, and for the last 5 and 30 minute intervals. but who wants to look at a big table of numbers. Then added GPS to start doing data logging of location and engine stats. I started out with just a prototyping shield with the MCP2515 and MCP2155 on top of an Uno. The more I experimented the more I realized I needed to have access to all the arduino's pins. I'm still using this in my car today and works fine for a shift light, I've also tried using it as a boast gauge, engine temp, intake temp etc. In an effort slim it down and make it a bit more robust I had a board made up from It was a bit big and didn't really fit anywhere under my dash so it was visible. I drove around with this in the car for a little while. That lead me to this first hardware version I got rid if the menu system, 7 seg display and encoder once I had fine tuned the brightness and shift points I liked and just hard coded them. Here is my version on the breadboard.Īfter bread boarding and testing upon testing I came up with a good design and code. I started out just making a Sequential Shift Light for my 2008 WRX and found this project.Īs I started looking into my car I found there was no good way to pull the RPM signal from the ECU using traditional PPR from the ECU I had to switch gears and use the CAN bus.
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